There is no such thing as Italian pizza. Contrary to what the VPN, APN, DOP and other acronyms might have led you to believe, there’s more to Italy than Naples alone. No other style has a history quite as long, but the soft round discs with puffy edges do not speak to the needs of an entire peninsula. A piece of land with such diverse history and terrain has just as eclectic a menu, leaving no single Italian pizza. We’re seeing a LOT of Neapolitan representation these days, but if New York is any indication, I’d say it’s time to brush up on your Julius Caesar and prepare for a visit from the Roman pizza army.